The Armenian Ghat and flower market.


That’s where we started our visit today and given Cyprus’s Armenian population and many friends in that community I was intrigued.

The Armenians were in Bengal before the Brits ! There was evidence of their presence from 1630. Armenian traders had arrived in Bengal fleeing religious persecution, (even then) and they quickly became successful traders. The Armenian holy Church of Nazareth dates to 1724.When the Brits arrived they relied on the Armenians to show them the ropes.

We walked towards Howrah to get to the flower market. It was magical and I loved every moment. Scents, marigolds by the thousands, garlands, leaves for offerings, there was such activity and interactions.

And back to my Armenian connection. Our hotel is The Fairlawn opened in 1783.We stayed here in 1979!

When we were here it was run by a formidable Armenian lady called Violet Sarkies married to Major Ted Smith an army man. Apparently it is the oldest hotel in Kolkata.

During the First World War her parents had escaped the genocide of Armenians by the Ottoman government in what is present day Turkey.

“My mother brought my grandmother on her back, all the way — via Afghanistan, Kabul, Khyber Pass into Dacca in 1915.”

That’s where she was born but moved to Kolkata which she described as her desh, her city. She died aged 93 having welcomed stars and celebrities for years to her delightful green haven in the centre of the city.

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