A walk through squash and aubergine plantations, turmeric and corn fields and rice paddies. A vibrant green punctuated by yellow and purple flowers stretching out before us.

On our way to some tombs we come up to a main road. People waiting under a banyan tree’s shade. By the side big jute bags of wheat, rice, dal. This is a free government service called the Food Security Project.

Our guide suggests that some 80 million are below the poverty line. I quiz him how that is defined. It’s complicated and I cannot vouch for the accuracy of this number.

India measures poverty using household consumption expenditure rather than income. This avoids tracking difficulties from seasonal or informal earnings.

The world bank says it 16%. Many Indians have been lifted out of poverty for sure but many people in rural areas live off the land, which is always subject to the vagaries of climate events. Many displaced by flooding along the banks. We have seen small huts, with goats and cows in the yard and sometimes inside their houses. There is poverty here.

Cards are issued which entitle you to rations in fixed time periods. The items allocated are on the bottom of the card. Wheat, rice, dal, cooking oil and kerosene. A digital system records your fingerprint and an entry is made on your card.

That’s a reality which is current and not the nawabs palaces which are maintained as relics of a bygone era.

Seeing this I was encouraged by the government initiative. At the same time I am aware of the issues that have currently erupted over voting rights in India which may end up disenfranchising many of these people. People are protesting and there is anger. Hunger and anger are formidable foes anywhere.

Walking through a village which has jute plantations I met a few of the women. With no common languages but broad and welcoming smiles we were able to interact. I admired her beads and her matted hair.

A simple life close to the earth and what it provides. The super power of course is the River.