We have travelled round from Raja Ampat to West Papua over the Bird’s Head and into the bay. Our destination was Roon island for a snorkel off the coast and a visit to the village nearby.

Roon comes from the Indonesian word for ironwood. Yende is one of seven small villages built literally on the coastline and most of the houses are on stilts. Ironwood perhaps?

The village has a backdrop of mountains which supply the village with fresh water from a river or lake above. So much so that everywhere we went we heard the sound of water being pumped under pressure to the houses. Washing bowls overflowing.The communal bath tubs scattered around the village were also full.

We were greeted by a band of flute, drum and ukulele players and a phalanx of gorgeous children. Beautiful faces, fine curly hair, some bleached to a copper colour from the sun. In front of the church a warrior dance with black painted youths bearing bows and arrows followed by a women’s dance, more sedate and rhythmical. Young performers then danced to what sounded like more modern music joined by many of the children.

We were proudly shown the old and new churches. Protestant missionaries arrived in 1885. A falling apart Bible is a treasured possession on the alter.

The homes were humble. The children joyful. We walked and talked exchanging names and greetings.

We saw some spectacular spider orchids and tiny crabs. Most here are fishermen. It’s interesting to see none of the forest is cleared.

We were given a very warm welcome and send off from the pontoon.