It’s lovely to be welcomed to Banda Neira by traditional long boats called Koras. One in green and one in white. Full of eager loud rowers rowing to the even beat of a drummer and encouraging the splashing of water as the rowers lift their oars.

The island lies in the tranquil Banda Sea. On our right the imposing volcanic shape of Gunung Api.

The Banda Islands were once the only source of nutmeg and mace. At that time more valuable than gold. The Portuguese arrived first, followed by the Dutch and the English in the 16th and 17th century. All looking to benefit commercially from these spices. Fortresses were built for protection and Fort Belgica which we visited today was one such.

Our visit can be summarised as a motley band of strange onlookers from the turrets.

We enjoyed Traditional dancing and a great modern band with two female vocalists who got us all dancing. My attempt to get to the upper turrets ended in failure as I got stuck in one of the narrow openings with a rucksack on my back.

The infamous VOC signifying the Dutch East Indies Company. The gravestones in the Catholic Church with birds and other insignia for those who died here. A lot more locals lost their lives at the hands of the colonialists.

Today a tranquil town, disturbed only by the sound of motorbikes, the preferred mode of transport. Derelict buildings, colourful homesteads. Chickens and cocks in beautiful plumage, many cats. I wonder how many chick dinners those cats have!

Some buildings have seen better days but money is flowing in for some to be restored, like Government house.

Others are humble and colourful and are homes to a few thousand people on the island.

A lot of locals were killed. Workers were brought in from neighbouring islands. So there is a mixture of early Chinese, Arabs, Javanese who make up the current Banda Neira population.