The Trobriands

I was a young university student when I first heard about the Trobriands. The many insights of Bronislaw Malinowski which changed the way some people related to these islanders- He studied their matrilineal societies with strong bartering systems in shells called kula and some interesting sexual practices, not to mention their take on cricket.

As soon as the ship anchored we were greeted by many dugouts, these ones completely different from others we have seen. They had an outrigger and sometimes a sail attached too. A few who came to greet us showed us the coral fish they caught and their green crayfish. A couple of the kids came in half a boat which made us laugh. They managed it perfectly.

So it is with considerable interest that we step ashore – on one of the islands of the group found in the Solomon sea. Kuiawa Island. We land on a beach of the village welcoming us. Some of the huts are in the water, others a little up further up. Certainly vulnerable to rising sea levels.

The first welcome by the men is performed in the water and on boats. Quite a feat on these small dugouts. The men tall and lean with beautiful faces. The dances they perform are vigorous, loud and largely characterised with thrusting movements of their hips.

We walk up to the main square of the village where several more dances are performed, two with the women being serenaded with a guitar and the next two a mixture of the sexes and small children. The children oh the children are so beautiful.

Their gardens are well kept yam plants, coconuts and taro. The houses built of wood and palm fronds, often with a lower level under the house where some of the women and children sit and cook and then an upper level where presumably they sleep. Their main occupations are fishing, handicrafts and subsistence farming.

We admire their crafts, talk to the women and children and go for a walk on the island before we end up on the beach for a swim. I quiz one of the older woman who is busy putting a sharp knife into her mouth. She opens her mouth to show me the betel nut – buyai she is chewing on complete with lime ( from broken shells heated up ) and mustard seeds from a plant they grow. They love it – that is what keeps them happy in the community she tells me. She grins widely and shows not only stained teeth but many rotting ones too. I ask whether the children are allowed to do this and her answer is that if the parents can why not the children. A little boy whose photo I took grinned when i showed him his photo- but all his little teeth were half eaten.